"How," Christina asked, "did something as simple as water become so complicated?"

A country woman, Christina had enthusiastically accompanied me on a "superstore" shopping trip. But, when we turned down an aisle to find row after row of bottled water, Christina froze, shaking her head in wonder. Aside from a recognizable bottle of Evian, she was in unfamiliar territory.

"How," she asked, "am I supposed to pick one?"

Whether you're a country dweller like Christina or as cosmopolitan as they come, chances are you've asked similar questions. After all, our running performance is greatly affected by our level of hydration, and few items are more convenient than packaged bottles of water.

If the world of bottled waters is a little murky for you, then read on. We'll share the secret sources of these beverages, uncover government regulations, and answer that timeless question: is bottled water really better than tap?

GETTING TO THE SOURCE

Many consider bottled water to be the hallmark of sophistication. After all, grasping a green bottle of Perrier is much more impressive than a Dixie cup filled with stuff from the tap.

For those not swayed by image, there's always the issue of health: With reports of contaminated public water and the fitness fascination that has taken hold in American culture over the last decade, it is not surprising that bottled water has blossomed into a $35 billion annual business with some 900 different brands and varieties available.

But where do these waters come from? Unfortunately, the Fountain of Youth remains undiscovered. And no, the label's little Alpine picture does not mean it comes from a mountain spring.

The answer lies in the bottle's words, not image. If it says "artesian," or "glacial," you can be sure of the source. But even that doesn't mean workers traveled to Antarctica and melted huge chunks of ice directly into your bottle.

In fact, some sources estimate that up to 40% of bottled water is taken from municipal sources, then purified by processes including deionization, active carbon filtration, and reverse osmosis. These waters are usually referred to as "drinking water."

As for "artesian" water: this exotic word simply describes underground reservoirs located above the water table.

WET REGULATIONS

So where does the government fit into this industry? The Food & Drug Administration (FDA) requires bottled waters to meet the same purification standards as tap water. (In some areas of the country, we can't help but wonder if gutter water would pass the test...)

However, federal laws do not apply unless a manufacturer sells the water outside the state in which it was produced. That means that a Colorado bottler is not required to meet federal regulations unless the water is shipped to, for example, Utah.

But don't spit out that mouthful just yet. Many states - including Colorado - carefully monitor the production of bottled water. In fact, the Colorado State Department of Health regularly inspects bottling facilities and analyzes their water quality.

STOP OR SAIL?

So, should you blissfully sail along on the (bottled) waters, or should you jump ship? That depends on you. Yes, it is true that the bottled water on your grocery store shelf may not be any purer than the stuff streaming from your shower faucet. And the comparative cost is almost ridiculous: Consumers pay 240- 10,000 times more per gallon for bottled water, and an estimated 90% of that goes to cover the cost of the bottle, label, and marketing. But there are benefits as well.

First, there's the taste factor. For many, the flavor of tap water is nothing short of repulsive. Bottled waters often boast a much cleaner, crisper flavor. And, if that's what you need to stay hydrated, then bottle up!

Second, there's the convenience factor. The human body is 70% water overall. The brain is composed of 85% water, the blood 90%, and the liver 96%. Even a minor case of dehydration can greatly affect the body's function.

Most Americans suffer from mild dehydration. And, even when we do consume a beverage, it often contains caffeine and/or alcohol, which are both diuretics. When intense exercise is thrown into the mix - such as running a few miles a day - the risk of dehydration becomes even greater.

This is where bottled water comes to the rescue. We are immersed in the age of speed: from fast food to fast Internet access, we want it now. There is precious little time to take a breath, let alone fill a glass with ice water, slowly sip it, and carefully wash the glass afterwards.

And, with bottled water, we don't have to. Rather than sinking in frustration over the effort it takes to get in our eight daily glasses, we can reach into the refrigerator for a 64-ounce bottle, sip it throughout the day, and, at day's end, rest assured that we've done at least one good thing for our body.

In short, don't sweat it when it comes to bottled water. As I advised a puzzled Christina, select a brand whose taste you like and guzzle it down. If you choose to save yourself some money by refilling the bottle with tap water a couple times... well, we'll drink to that, too.

Whenever possible, Dame Wilson escapes to the mountain trails of Colorado for a little taste of Paradise, which can also be sampled in the products of her kitchen. She is employed as the Editor of an international culinary magazine.